LIGHTING

There are a few things to keep in mind when setting up a saltwater aquarium. The initial costs are almost always more than the initial costs of setting up a freshwater system, particularly when you have considered creating a miniature reef. Many corals are photosynthetic and therefore require high intensity lighting for survival. Some require more or less light than others, so the type of lighting should be taken into consideration prior to setting up the tank. There are many kinds of light kits such as T-5's, VHO, Compact Fluorescents, Metal Halides, etc. Keep in mind, also, that a tank would usually need a minimum of 3-5 watts per gallon. Therefore if you considered a 100 gallon reef tank, you should also be looking a light kit capable of burning 300-500 watts at a minimum.

FILTRATION

Filtration is another highly important part of the ecosystem that you are building and again, there are many kinds. There are wet/dry systems, refugiums, etc. Though I have personally used practically every kind of hobbyist filtration systems, I lean more towards the refugium. Though somewhat similar to the wet/dry, the refugium is divided into a minimum of 3 sections or compartments. One section is used to 'receive' the water that drains from the tank. Where bio-balls, bio bail ,and other forms of bacteria housing are generally used, I recommend using live rock rubble . There is an overwhelming theory that bio balls, etc house undesired nitrates as well as the nitrifying bacteria that is so desired. The middle compartment would serve as the refugium where your macro-algae would be placed for nutrient export. A plant bulb would hang above this section and would do the macro-algae best if left on 24 hours a day. The last compartment could be used for your return pump and protein skimmer. Any other section could be used for things such as trapping micro bubbles so that they are not returned into your tank or for carbon placement.

CIRCULATION

Whether you choose an overflow box or have a reef ready tank that is pre-drilled for your water drain and return, make sure that you are able to move your tank's water capacity through the filter a minimum of 5 times per hour. This will help to keep the water clear and adequately oxygenated. I recommend a good pump such as the Mag Drive or the Quiet One. For water circulation, many kinds of pumps are used in many different ways. Maxi-jet pumps by Marineland do a great job of circulating tank water. Some manufacturers have even produced rotating deflectors to move the water in different directions. You might even consider a closed loop.

HEATERS

A good submersible heater is highly recommended. Marineland Stealth, Hydor, and Ebo-Jager have all produced very dependable submersibles.

PROTEIN SKIMMERS

Protein Skimmers are a must! They are used to export dissolved organics from your system. Though there seems to be a fair amount of controversy as to the kind of skimmer one needs, I will share my opinion based on experience instead of something from hearsay. There is talk amongst hobbyists and biologists that one should buy the most expensive protein skimmer that they can afford. I disagree! While some may not believe that it is possible to over skim, I do. In addition to exporting dissolved organics, skimmers also remove some of the very essential elements that make up sea water such as calcium, iodine, and strontium. Skimmers also remove plankton that many of your fish and corals utilize for food and growth. In saying this, by all means buy a good skimmer but ignore those who tell you that you have to buy stock into the company who makes them by paying ridiculous prices.

LIVEROCK

There are several kinds of live rock. Figi, Tonga Branch, Marshall Islands, etc. There are also many different prices. You can build your ecosystem using the rock of your choice. Just keep in mind that the live rock will play a huge role in the overall filtration of your tank. While I would recommend that you have plenty, I also disagree that one MUST have 1-1 1/2 pounds per gallon. Some rock is more porous than others and may actually weigh less, so it is possible to have less than the so-called rule of thumb and still have plenty of live rock. When purchasing un-cured live rock, most hobbyists tend to choose rock that is loaded with coralline algae. Fact is, once this rock goes into the curing bin, it seldom comes out with the beautiful colors that you saw before it went through the process. While curing, lots of the life, including the coralline will be lost so make sure that you choose the shapes and sizes of rock based on desire instead of by it's color. Don't be fooled distributors who claim that live rock is cured and ready for your tank when they have to ship it to you. Some animals, including sponge will not do well once out of the water and must still be cured prior to placing in a tank full of inhabitants!

ADDITIVES

Be prepared to meet the needs of the fish and/or corals that you plan to house in your ecosystem. The oceans of the world consist of so many elements that are constantly being depleted by fish waste, protein skimming, and the use of carbon. Many of these elements will need to be replenished on a regular basis. Calcium, Stontium, and Iodide almost certainly as well as magnesium and buffers.

OTHER DEVICES AND GADGETS

Calcium Reactors, Auto Top off units, Phosphate Removers, Light Timers, Feeders, pH controllers, refractometers, ozonizers, UV Sterilizers, Fluidized Sand Beds, Test kits, etc.

CYCLING THE TANK

Now lets get the tank cycled. Remember that this process differs from that of freshwater in that you will not be putting any livestock in it that you have any real intentions of keeping. The process can be lengthy and take up to as many as 8 weeks. Don’t rush it! Anything that happens too quickly in saltwater usually means that something will quickly go wrong. Lets start with some live rock, a great culture for the bacteria that will eventually support the inhabitants of your tank. I generally use a specific gravity of about 1.023. You can cycle with a higher specific gravity if you are using uncured rock with the intentions of eradicating nuisances such as bristle worms and mantis shrimp. If you are planning on having a reef tank, NEVER USE TAP WATER!!! Instead use a synthetic sea salt mixed with R/O ( reverse osmosis ) or D/I (de-ionized ) water. Keep the temperature between 78 and 80 degrees. I'd also be prepared to monitor the pH throughout this nitrification process and keep it at 8.3 or no lower than 8.0. Rapid changes in pH are detrimental and this would be a great time to begin monitoring those values. I don't recommend the use of any lighting during the process because you will inevitably have a bloom of undesirable algae. Then let the tank do it's thing. Let it run for about a month even before the first water test other than the pH. If after a month, the test parameters indicate that you have completely cycled the tank, you may consider adding some damselfish, a relatively inexpensive fish that may give you further indications about the readiness or quality of the water. Though very hardy, some or all damsels may die in these early stages. After the tank cycles and you are able to successfully keep the damsels alive, then it should be time to try some corals. At this point, I would still wait at least another month before adding more desirable and more expensive fish. Keep a good acclimation method in practice and, again, don't rush!!! When acclimating corals or clams, I usually float the bag containing the new animal in the tank water for a minimum of 15 minutes. Then I cut the bag open and place the coral/clam in the tank where it's lighting and water flow needs would be met. Once you do begin adding fish and other inverts, float the bag for at least 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, cut the bag and add about a 1/2 to a cup of water from the tank into the bag. Wait another 15 minutes and repeat. Do this 3-4 times. Then wait another 10 minutes and slowly release the fish into the tank while dumping as little of the water that is in the bag into the tank and discard. Keep in mind that the coral, invert/fish has no oxygen other than that introduced into an open bag when water is being added to it. Once the bag is cut open, make sure that you do regular water additions until time to release the animal!!!!!